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THE FIRST KING

 

 FA GHOUM (1316 - 1374 ), founder of and the first king of Lane Xang who created the first unified state of the Lao people.

 

Fa Ngum was the grandson of Souvanna Khamphong, the last in a long line of loyal rulers of the principality of Muang Swa, later called Luang Prabang. According to the legend, Souvanna Khamphong banished Fa Ngum’s father for having seduced one of Khamphong’s concubines. The family fled to Cambodian capital at Angkor, where he married a Khmer princess.

 

In about 1350 Fa Ngum and his father raised an army in Cambodia and fought their way through the numerous Lao principalities of the southern and central Mekong River valley, in the course of which his father died. He continued on to the conquest of Xieng Khouanh then, in 1353, took Muang Swa, forced the abdication of Souvanna Khamphong, and proclaimed himself king of expanded kingdom of Lane Xang. Small Lao principalities to the north recognised his suzerainty, but he had to fight to gain the allegiance of the south. His major conquest was of the kingdom of Vientiane. Before his death, his empire extended through virtually the entire area of what was to become Laos, plus the Black River valley of present northern Vietnam and northern and eastern edges of the Khorat Plateau of present Thailand.

 

During his rule, he introduced Buddhism of the Sinhalese school to Laos. Prabang, Buddha Image which served as the kingdom’s palladium and gave Luang Prabang its new name, was brought from Sri Lanka.

 

By the last year of his reign, he had become insensitive to growing public dissatisfaction with constant warfare. His ministers finally deposed him in 1373 and exiled him to the principality of Nan in present Thailand. He was succeeded by his son Un Heuan, who ruled as Sam Saen Thai. (Britannica)

 

DID YOU KNOW

 

What is the capital city of Champassak province?

 

The capital city of Champassak province is Pakse.  After 1975, Champassak province formed by merging three separate provinces together; Champassak, Sedon, and Sithandon.

 

Here are some of influential figures in our modern time who come from the south: Kaysone Phomvihane, Nouhak Phoumsavan, Khamtay Siphandone and Andy Chanthavixay.  

 

 THE LAST KING

 

Prince Savang Vatthana was born on November 13th 1907 at the Royal Palace of Luang Prabang. King Sri Savangvong showed that his son will succeed him on the Throne. He was the older of the five. Princess Sammathi, Prince Sayasack, Prince Souphantharangsri and princess Khampheng. King Srisavangvong surprised by the death of his father while he was abroad studying in France.

 

At the age of 10, Prince Savang was sent to study in France. His Majesty SriSavang Vatthana ascended to the throne on the evening of October the 29th 1956, when his father King SriSavangvong died in the Royal Palace. Under his kingdom he had united provinces: Houanphan, 1931, Houakhong, Xiengkhouang and Vientiane, 1942, Champassak and Sayboury, 1946.

 

Laos had become a constitutional monarchy after 1947. Forced to abdicate on November 29, 1975 by Pathet Lao. He refused to leave the country. In March 1977, His Majesty Srivang Vantthana was arrested with her Majesty the Queen, HRH the Crown Prince Vongsavang, HRH the Prince Sisavang, his second son, Princes Souphantharangsri and Thongsouk, his brothers.

 

Eventually on December the 14th 1989, Laos PDR Prime Minister declared in Paris that King SriSavang Vatthana had died.

 

Did you know?

 

Fa Ngum was the first King of Laos(14th century), known as Kingdom of Lane Xang. Sri Savang Vatthana is the Last King of Laos (1975), Kingdom of Laos.

 

Prince in Australia

 

Prince Souryavong Savang visited Sydney during May.  Lao Communities’ leaders in Sydney, Canberra, Albury, and Melbourne held receptions to welcome the Prince.  After Sydney the Prince and his entourage travelled to Canberra, capital city of Australia.   Then they went to Albury, a city border Victoria and New South Wales where there are quite a large number of Lao-Australian.  Then off they went to Melbourne.

Chao FaNgum was the grandson of Phraya Khamphong, the ruler of Meuang Sua (Luangprabang). Because it was reputed that he was born with 33 teeth, an ominous sign for the throne, he was exiled from the land. By the way, onesource said that his father, Phi Fa, committed adultery with his grandfather’sconcubine, both the father and Chao FaNgum fell from the ruler’s favours and had to leave the country.

 

Another source even said Chao FaNgum wasn’t exiled but was sent tostudy at the Angkor Wat Court. Whatever it may be, one thing was obvious: by growing up in the Foreign land came the wider perspective uninhibited by the constraints of one’s own Land. More importantly, he got the military support from the Khmer court hoping to Check the steady advance of the Tai of Adhutthaya who, at that time, was eroding The Khmer power in Isan region. To strengthen the tie with the future Meuang Sua Ruler, the Khmer king gave Chao FaNgum his daughter, Nang KeoKengYa.  Luckily, For Chao FaNgum’s cause, the Sukhothai kingdom was fast in decline leaving a Vacuum in the heartland of Indochina. More over, the new lord of China, the Mongols Preferred to have many contending powers in the region checking on the expansion Of one another. That was one of the reasons Chao FaNgum’s force might consist of Not only Khmer but the descendants of Shan and Yunnanese troops recruited by the Mongols to garrison the Middle Mekong until around 1330. Also, he might also have The support of the LaoTheung as well as the Tai of the Middle Mekong.

http://www.laowaves.com/KingFaNgum/

 

On his way to Meuang Sua, he struck Meuang Sikhottabong (Nakhone Phanom/Thakek) And then Meuang Phouane. At that time, Chao KhamHiao ? his uncle was the ruler Of Meuang Sua who unable to withstand the invading army of Chao FaNgum had Committed suicide. The aristocrats of Meuang Sua then invited Chao FaNgum to Assume the throne. Given the easiness his force overwhelm the enemy, Chao FaNgum Then struck PhaiNam (Vientiane) who offered the stiff resistance. Only through ruse Did Chao FaNgum succumb this key Meuang. After that, he struck Isan, the Outlying Lao Meuang along the Vietnamese border, Sipsongchuthai, Sipsongphanna, Shan states, Lanna and then Adhutthaya. Though not conquered the last two since they Agreed to sign a favorable agreement with the new power, LanXang under Chao FaNgum Became a strong and powerful kingdom in the region. The king of Adhutthaya then sent His daughter, Nang KeoNghotFa, to Chao FaNgum. This queen later gave birth to Chao SameSenthai whom I will write in the later episode. By the way, in Chao FaNgum’s reign, Buddhism was introduced to the land and, therefore, giving legitimacy to the new dynasty which was to last until 1975.

 

Here, I would like to mention that the kingdom Chao FaNgum newly established was Called LanXang HomKhao , literally a Million Elephants and a White Parasol. According to Martin Stuart-Fox, LanXang symbolized both military power and royal kingship. It was the choice of the military conqueror: it named his means of projecting military power, warned of retribution for reluctant tributaries, and challenging neighboring Mandalas.

 

It was interesting to note that Chao FaNgum was the prototype of the Tai ? free, brave, And full of vitality. Though proclaimed a Buddhist, he wasn’t restrained by its mores.  He would even put the rulers of the Isan Meuang to death if not by the timely interference Of his Khmer teacher. Also, though supported by the Khmer court in his quest for the Throne, Chao FaNgum wasn’t a Khmer puppet. Instead, his kingdom covered the territory Once under the Khmer rule. That was Isan, the Middle Mekong and possibly the Lower Mekong as well. Only with the passing away of his devout Khmer wife did Chao FaNgum Lost any interest in expanding and ruling his kingdom. It was recorded that he succumbed To adultery and so was exiled to the principality of Nan. Likely, he was deposed because The old aristocracy shunned the favour he heaved on his Khmer followers and therefore Challenged the status quo long established in the seat of power: Meuang Sua. Whatever the excuse Chao FaNgum, a warrior king of heroic proportion, was to die in the foreign Land a distance away from the powerful kingdom he single-handedly helped created.

 

What a tragedy! At the same time, it showed that the Tai always put Dhamma above Anything else. This Dhamma assertion did occur one more time at the time of Chao Souriyavongsa that would plunge the kingdom into a severely dynastic dispute.

 

 

Hakphaang,

 

LanXang

 

See more picture at http://www.laowaves.com/KingFaNgum/

 

more info  http://www.panyasin.net or http://www.muanglao.com

 

Symposium on Lao history

 

Scope of discussion: LanXang history from 1353 to 1893, the year of the establishment of LanXang kingdom by Chao FaNgum to its dissolution when France and Siam divided it into 2 separate entities.

 

Special Emphasis: Chao Anou’s reign from 1804-1828.

 

Key players: Chao FaNgum, Chao Xaysettha, Chao

 

Souriyavongsa and Chao Anou

 

Minor playors: Pha Wo/Pha Ta, Chao Siribounyasane and Chao Manthatouraj

 

Key regions: Vientiane, Luangprabang, Champassak, Meuang Phouane and Nakhon Phanom

 

External factors: Siam, Vietnam, Burma, Cambodia and, to a lesser extent, China. France and England were key factors at the very end of LanXang kingdom.

 

Expected date: Spring 2003 or Summer 2003

 

Expected place: Berkeley or Oakland, California

 

Purpose:

 

1. To restore to the Lao people a part of their roots and a piece of their lost history.

 

2. To present Lao history from the perspective of Lao people.

 

3. To generate a comprehensive understanding of Lao history from various sources which, at times, contradictory ones.

 

4. To make Lao people see what tasks are entrusted to them.

 

5. To derive lessons from the 600 years of LanXang kingdom

 

6. To patch up wounds left by centuries of suspicion, antagonism and even hatred among the Lao descendants everywhere

 

7. To establish a common good among the educated Lao and a framework for KhuamPenhLao (Lao identity) necessary for the revival of the once great LanXang

 

8. To extract the core of Lao spirit that has sustained Lao people throughout their hard times

 

9. To hand down the deepest wishes and dreams of the Lao ancestors

 

10. To keep the Lao spirit of independence and of dignity alive in the present generation of Lao and in the future generations of Lao to come

 

The symposium will attempt to extract on both the superficial and deeper level:

 

1. the strength and weakness of LanXang kingdom

 

2. Lao-Thai love/hate relationship. What are the cause and the remedy, if any? Most importantly, the role of Siam (present day Thailand) in the breaking up of Lao consciousness. Is this act intentional or a mere by-product of history?

 

3. The role of Vietnam in the making and/or breaking of LanXang kingdom: myth and facts

 

4. Was Isan Lao? How strong was the evidence?

 

5. Was LanXang a strong kingdom? Or a mere conglomeration of petty fiefdoms?

 

6. Are the Lao the dying race unable to generate its own momentum? If not, what are the signs that constantly elude even the forward thinking Lao?

 

7. What if France didn’t snatch the present day Laos from Siam, would LanXang ever revive? What was destroyed with the dismantling of LanXang kingdom into 2 separate entities: Laos of Indochinese France and Isan of Thailand?

 

Most importantly, this symposium will force Lao people to take a good look at their history in its most defying moment, though tragic it may be: Chao Anou’s defying act against Siam. After all said and done, Chao Anou’s reign is the key to Lao history in its microscopic form.

 

Simply said, the Lao heart lies here in its cowardice and in its valor. What they need to do is to open their hearts and ask themselves: ‘what kind of Lao are we?’

 

Lastly, Lao people need to come to terms with their own history and then to iron out their constructed difference or they will be just a pretentious heir to LanXang kingdom.

 

What this symposium aims to accomplish is to make the Lao people give a serious thought to who they are, where they come from and where they are going as a people. Not the least, this symposium wants them to not taking any piece of history for granted but put it through the test of arguments, logic and evidences. If this goal is actualized, it will be worth the effort of the organizers and those who participate in this event.

 

Possible agenda

 

Morning session:

 

Speaker on Lao history from 1353 to 1694 – the end of Chao Souriyavongsa’s reign.

 

Q&A Panelists on the above topic

 

Q&A Afternoon session: Speaker on Chao Anou’s reign

 

Q&A Panelists on the above topic

 

Q&A Hakphaang,

 

Kongkeo Saycocie

 

p.s. any comments or suggestions are wholeheartedly welcome and greatly appreciated here. After all, this is just an initial conception of the symposium on my part. I am sure that, with many heads together either through you or the to-be-appointed committees, the best symposium on Lao history will be formed.

 

more info  http://www.panyasin.net or http://www.muanglao.com

The ritual known to the Lao as the Phithi Souane or Phithi Baci is a ritual to call back, welcome, propitiate and unite the khouane with the physical body.
It is the ubiquitous of all Lao functions and celebrations, and integral part if Lao family life. It can be held for a farewell, welcome, birth of a baby, birthdays, house warming, job promotions, harvest, new car, marriage and a New Year celebration.
 The Soukhouane ritual is not a seasonal and does not follow any ‘official’ calendar of ceremonies and rites in Laos.
 Although this ritual is not unique to the Lao, it has been said that is a Lao ceremony ‘par excellence’.
It contains an amalgam of the many religious and cultural traditions that have influenced Lao culture and it continues to adapt itself to political and cultural values.
 The ceremony celebrates, in essence, important family occasions as well as communal events of significance and in an integral part of the life of the Lao.
It is a key element of Lao culture, being a microcosm of Lao values.

Traditionally, a Buddhist ceremony which is performed every year is called Hidsipsong, tradition of 12 months, while the fourteen rules on salutation made by officials, sister-in-law, husband and wife and all Loa people are called Khongsipsi.
These above are intended to express salutation and loving kindness to the god and people. Baci is multi-purpose ceremony to express the best wishes for the important days of lives such as new babies, marriages, departures, visiting friend and others. Holy white cotton strings are tied round hands of the women with kapok, coiled hair style.
Eating :
90% of Loa people consume sticky rice. The ware kept the rice after steaming is called Tikao or kongkao and can be taken to every where. The arrangement of food is on the food big plate. The main food are Lap, Koy, Ping.
Housing :
Houses are built on stilt and have free apace underneath that roofs a triangle wind plates on each side. These are 2 types of houses; single and a double roofed how many steps on the stairs depends on the height of the house, but traditionally they made uneven numbers such as: 3 steps, 5 steps, 7 steps and 9 steps.
Ways of dressing :
Costumes depend on gender and age but regarding to the culture, Loa women dressed properly, because they are mothers of the nation in tradition, Lao women wear the silk skirts, blouses and scarves to attend important ceremonies.
Design of Lao women skirts :
1. Design with upper and lower parts.
2. Not too short and too long.
3. The upper part over the waist.
4. Lower part of skirt suitable.
5. Not too sexy.
Attending significant events, Lao women wear scarves and coiled hair styles. Lao men wear salong, big large pants or the peasant pants to attend the important ceremonies. Paekaoma is used for cleaning the body, covering the head and others.
The costumes in the previous periods : Laos is one old nation in South East Asia. This place where was called Souvannaphoum and some Lao were settled in South of China called Anachak Ai-Lao. Due to the wars Lao migrated southward and established Monarchy Nanechao.
The first king was named Sinoulo, governor of Nongsae as Chinese called Talifu town. It was capital city of Nanechao had peace for quite a long time. The first governor called Nanechao-ong. Main occupations were cultivation, animal husbandry and textile weavings. Hair style were coiled down to both sides down to the back and ear rings.  
Men and women dressed same styles of pants of shirts made by textile no colour and they did not have any decoration wares.
Occupation :
Rice cultivation, animal husbandry, raising silk worms and handicrafts were main occupations additional Activities were trading, fishery, workers in the plants or officials.
Culture & Society : 
Smiles, Loves liberty, no quarrels, no oppression, respect the nation, reputation and honor with their lives. Commonly Lao people are fully of love and respect others. “To visit north or south, meal can be requested, but visitors, no need to study in the hotels or pay for food”.
Sensation : 
Friendship, love and peace are sit the hearts of Lao people. They hate oppressors. Our slogan said United we survive and separate, we die. We hate the conflicts and we can give excuse to others if the cases are reasonable. Lao territory is very wide.
We like literature and arts, Many poets are stories were written by our great authors namely : Phousonelane, grand father teaches grand son, lanesonephu, grandson teaches grandfather, sonelork in thangane soneluk. Phravetsanedone. Champasitonh, the 4 champa flower trees, kalaket, Tengone. Soulivong kunthung-kuntheuang and others were written in palm leaves these above poetry are our national heritage designed our ancestor hearts to give us the best loves to our nation.

After performing the Buddhist lent for three months, in the rainy season starting from the 1st dark moon of the eight month to the 1st dark moon of the eleventh moon, the closing ceremony is organized. Firstly, the performance of Buddhist lent activities is the responsibilities of the monks, not for the lay people.
There after, the form of the ceremony change as the villagers decide to prepare the offerings for merit making. So in the morning of the fifteen day of the eleventh month, the villagers take the offerings to the temples and listen to Buddha’s teaching while the candles ceremony, light worshipping and fire boat festivities are performed in the evening. In the next day, the 1st dark moon of the eleven month, boat racing is organized on the Mekong river.
The Buddhist Lent closing ceremony is performed in the same way as the beginning of Buddhist Lent, Boun Hokaopradabdine and Boun Khao Sark or Salark. At the festival day Buddhist villagers, dressed in new and beautiful clothes take the silver bowls or plateful of food and materials to offer the monks for merit making.
How to organize the ceremony.
The term “Watsa” means the rain or rainy season. the monks complete the practices of Buddha teachings during the period of three months in the rainy season without spending any nights in other places. On the 1st day of the dark moon of the eleventh month the closing ceremony for Buddhist Lent should be arranges.
But, in practice, it is organized in the full moon of the fifteen in the eleventh month, one day before the due date. In the Buddha’s teaching, the closing ceremony for Buddhist Lent was not decided, but Pavalana, prior notice ceremony was instead made after three months of Buddhist lent ended. So, in practice the monks made Pavalana on the evening of the full moon of the fifteen in the eleventh month.
It is one day before the real closing date.The term Pavalana  means to announce something in advance of warn or advise each other for example when the villagers say to the monks in advance that “If the monks need to have the 4 main factors such as : clothing, bedding, medicines or some things else, please advice us.” This also means Pavalana. It is to say something to do in advance. Pavalana is the task of the monks. When any monks violate the Buddhist rules, they should warn each other. The reason that the Lord of Buddha allowed the monks to give advice is that when the monks stay together during the Buddhist Lent in the same place it would a few of them might behave badly or make mistakes. After the Buddhist Lent ends, they warn or advice each other before leaving. This means “Pavalana.” To conduct the ceremony for Pavalana, the oldest monk has make a decision first. He may say three, two times of one.
Then the others say like him or saying one by one. The words are said in Pali language. It means that “To you all the monks, please listen to me today is the full moon day. It is the day to give prior notice that we have completed the Buddha practice.”After the decision is made, the oldest monk sits on his knees, joins his hands and says Pavalana in front the others in Pali language: “To you all the monks, may I notice you in advance and do not in doubt that I made mistakes or sins caused by a breach of the rules of the monastic order (Patimakkha), please warn me, to change my bad behaviour for proper behaviour acting.”
Then all the monks have to say the same words until its completion. The monks who completed the Buddhist Lent, can gain Anisong 5, merit making.

1. Air
Three carriers — Lao Airlines, Bangkok Airways and Vietnam Airlines — fly in and out of Luang Prabang and serve both domestic and international destinations. LPQ is the airport code and the airport itself is a tiny little affair reminiscent of simpler times.Domestically, Lao Airlines provides service to Vientiane several times daily and to Pakse three times a week.
Internationally, they fly to Chiang Mai, Bangkok and Hanoi daily and to Siem Reap almost every day.Bangkok Airways has two flights daily, only serving Bangkok. Their lounge at the airport is lovely and makes flight delays almost seem worthwhile.Vietnam Airlines serves Siem Reap and Hanoi five times a week each.
Lao Airlines:
Phamahapatsaman Rd,Luang Prabang. T: (071) 212 172; (071) 212 173
http://www.laoairlines.com
Bangkok Airways: 57/6 Sisavangvong Rd, Ban Xieng Mouane, Luang Prabang. T: (071) 253 334; (071) 253 253
http://www.bangkokair.com
Vietnam Airlines: Luang Prabang International Airport. T: (071) 213 048 http://www.vietnamairlines.com
2. Bus
Luang Prabang has two main bus stations: one for traffic to and from the north, called Kiew Lot Sai Nuan, and one for traffic to and from the south, called Naluang.
Some buses occasionally transit through the opposite station to which you’d expect, and consequently there are some Vientiane-bound buses leaving from the northern station and buses to Luang Nam Tha departing from the southern station.
To get to and from either station catch a tuk tuk for around 10,000 kip per person, no matter how many are going. Late at night or if there are only a few passengers, the price will rise to 20,000 kip.
If you tell your driver your ultimate destination, he should know which station to get you to.Most buses leave at around their scheduled departure time and will pick up more passengers along the way. Get to the station early as buses will often be filled to capacity, and the first on gets the best seats. Leave a bag of non-valuable belongings on your seat to reserve it if you don’t want to sit there until the bus leaves.
Those buses which are arriving from one town in transit to another can arrive already full. It’s possible to get your money back on a ticket in this situation if you make it politely clear to the bus station staff that you won’t go because the bus is full, and you’ll depart the next day. It’s best to do this while the bus is still at the station.
An alternative to the public system is to go by minibus -– really a minivan -– to some of the major tourist destinations. Tickets can be booked at all travel agents and some guesthouses and internet cafes.
The journeys are much shorter by minibus than on a public bus. Daily destinations are Vang Vieng (60,000 kip, 5 hours) and Vientiane ($18, 7 hours) but others can be organised if you have a number of people going, or are prepared to pay the cost of the whole van (such as Nong Kiaow, about $50, 3 hours, seats 6-7 people).
Southern Bus Terminal T: (071) 232 066Vang Vieng (Express): departs at 08:00 and roughly hourly thereafter, costing 100,000 kip and taking 6-7 hours.
Vang Vieng (VIP): departs at 08:00 and 09:00 and costs 130,000 kip and taking 6 hours.
Vientiane (Express): departs roughly every 90 minutes from 06:30, costing 120,000 kip and taking 10 hours.
VIP (Express): departs at 08:00 and, 09:00 and costs 135,000 kip and taking 8 hours.
Xieng Khuang/Phonsavan (local): departs at 08:30, costing 100,000 kip and taking 10 hours.
Xieng Khuang/Phonsavan (VIP): departs at 08:30, costing 115,000 kip and taking 8 hours.
Northern Bus Terminal T: (071) 252 729Huay Xai (local): departs 17:30 Tue, Thu, and Sat and costs 170,000 kip, taking 14-16 hours.Huay Xai (express): departs 17:30 Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sun and costs 190,000 kip, taking 14-16 hours.
Kunming: departs around 22:00-23:00 and costs 450,000 kip, taking 28-30 hours!
Luang Nam Tha: departs at 09:00, costing 90,000 kip, taking 8-9 hours.
Mengla (VIP): departs around 22:00-23:00 and costs 160,000 kip.
Nong Kiaow: departs at 10:00 and costs 55,000 kip, taking 4 hours.
Phongsali: departs on Friday 16:30 and costs 115,000 kip, taking 14-16 hours.
Udomxai: departs at 09:00, 12:00, 16:00 and costs 70,000 kip, taking 5-6 hours.A note about the above trip times. These are estimates, based on best case scenarios. Landslides and other issues frequently cause delays — moreso in wet season.
3. Boat
From Luang Prabang it is possible to go by boat to Nong Kiaow and Muang Ngoi, and to Huay Xai and the Thai border, via Pakbeng.The journey to Nong Kiaow and Muang Ngoi, a further hour upstream from Nong Kiaow and only accessible by boat, takes six to eight hours depending on the height of the river.
The journey starts with an hour or two up the Mekong, which turns into the Nam Ou, right where Pak Ou caves are, so a visit to these can be combined with the trip if organised in advance. The Nam Ou is stunning, lined with huge limestone cliffs towering straight up out of the water, small white sandy beaches, jungle forest and small villages with children playing in the water or washing nearby. Most travel agents will organise a boat to make this journey, and advertise for others to fill any empty spaces.
Boats are small and can be a little cramped, toilet stops are by the side of the river and you have to bring your own food and drink. But the scenery is beautiful and the trip is worth it. The cost for a private slow boat seating between one and six people is US$90, but through a tour company, you can get a seat on the 08:30 boat for 140,000 kip .The most common boat journey is between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai.
There are three options, with the fastest being by rocket boat. These speed boats make the distance in about six hours — approximately three hours for each leg with a brief stop in Pakbeng. The boat is very noisy and considered dangerous by many. Passengers wear helmets and life jackets. Tickets for speedboats can be bought at all travel agents and cost 370,000 kip to Huay Xai and 230,000 kip to Pakbeng only. Rocket boats leave from the pier at Ban Don, which can be reached by tuk tuk.
It takes about 15 minutes from town and should cost about 20,000 kip per person.Two kinds of slow boat make the journey to Huay Xai via Pakbeng. The more popular and cheaper option is the daily “backpacker ferry”, which leaves from the boat pier behind the Royal Museum.
Tickets can be bought from any travel agent in town, and cost 140,000 kip to Pakbeng, where onward tickets can be bought for Huay Xai. It departs daily. There is no limit to the number of tickets that are sold and it can sometimes be packed to the rafters. The designated boat for each day varies and as the boats are individually owned, the quality varies widely.The decadent option is to go by luxury slow boat with Luangsay Cruises for a two- or three-day voyage. The two-day cruise departs Luang Prabang on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays in the high season or Wednesdays and Saturdays only from May through September. Passengers stay at their own Luangsay Lodge one kilometre out of Pakbeng on their way through.
This costs US$243 to $394, depending on the season. The three-day option departs every Monday, Tuesday and Friday in the high season, and on Tuesdays and Fridays from May through September. It follows the same route with an extra overnight stop in a Khamu village and costs between $343 and $525. The cruises include all meals while on the boat and at the Lodges, accommodation in wooden bungalows with private bathroom and hot shower, an English-speaking guide, assistance crossing the Lao/Thai border and entrance to Pak Ou caves.
Late booking specials are sometimes available and can be reserved either by calling or visiting the Luangsay office in Luang Prabang via their website, or through any travel agency in Luang Prabang.However you travel, the Mekong is a beautiful river, and this is one of the best ways to travel long distances through the country. There is plenty to look at, and the journey is relaxing on the slow boats. Highly recommended.By boat from Luang Prabang to VientianeRegular passenger ferries no longer run between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. There is a speedboat service between Pak Lai in Sainyabuli province and Vientiane, but there are no regular public boats.
You have to hire the whole boat from a travel agent or at the boat landing. Speed boats cost about $160, seat six people, and take around five hours for the trip from Pak Lai to Vientiane. Slow boats take all day, seat 10-12 people and cost $200. If you can hire a boat independently, the price can be substantially cheaper.To reach Pak Lai from Luang Prabang, take a bus to Sainyabuli (5-6 hours) and then a songtheaw to Pak Lai (3 hours). Accommodation is available in both towns.
Slow Boat T: (071) 252 389Nong Kiaow: Departs at 08:30, costing 140,000 kip
Pak Ou Cave: Departs at 08:30, 10:30, costing 70,000 kip
Pakbeng: Departs at 08:30, costing 140,000 kip
Speed Boat T: (071) 212 237
Huay Xay: Departs at 08:30, costing 370,000 kip
Pakbeng: Departs at 08:30, costing 230,000 kip
Luangsay Cruises 50/4 Sakkarine Rd, Ban Wat Sene, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 252 553 ; Fax: (071) 252 304. Web: www.asian-oasis.com

The harsh realities of war are not lost in Xieng Khouang, a recurring battle zone throughout the early 19th century up until 1975 and much of the land is still littered with unexploded munitions, land mines and cluster bombs. For obvious reasons activities such as trekking and hiking should always be done with an experienced guide, who can lead you away from areas of potential danger.
The Mineral Springs in Baw Nyai are an innovational government-run project that combine a hot springs experience with a weekend trip, in which guests can stay at the Hot Springs Resort. Hopefully, this is the start of many activities and tours to reach the area.
Mineral Springs
The hot springs of Muang Kham are situated approximately 52km north of Muang Phonsavanh. Owned and operated by government organizations, the pool where the hot water bubbles up, can be reached by following a path parallel to the Hot Springs Resort, this pool is strictly off limits to the public but makes for some interesting viewing.
The resort consists of a number of old-fashioned style bungalows where electricity runs from 18:00 to the early morning, with its water supply coming from the fresh springs.For those who wish to frequent the hot springs, staying at the resort is part of the package.
The mineral springs are within a wooded area where bamboo rigs have been built so that you can bathe nearby.
Baw Noi is the smaller spring that feeds into a stream, here visitors can bathe where the cool stream waters meet with the warm waters of the springs.

Xieng Khouhang consists of six districts Muang Khoune, Muang Phonsavanh, Muang Nong Hai, Muang Kham, Muang Mork, and Muang Phou Koud. Situated in the southernmost remote provinces of Laos, the area was part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, where troops, supplies and artillery were smuggled out of northern Vietnam and through the mountains on the eastern edge of the country, and subsequently into southern Vietnam.
While the vast majority of people reading this will be aware of the Vietnam War fought between 1963 to 1974, fewer know that a large part of the war was fought in Laos, giving the country the dubious title of being ‘the most bombed country in the world’.During the space of eleven years, the equivalent of one bomb was dropped every eight minutes.In total, two million tonnes of ordinance was dropped on Laos, more than on Germany and Japan combined during the Second World War. As a result the vast majority of sights within the province are dedicated to paying respects to the great tragedy that was inflicted on the area and its people.
The Plain Of Jars
The most distinctive and enigmatic of all of Laos attractions are the Plain Jars. Steeped in mystery, the large area extending around Phonosavan from the southwest to the northeast is littered with stone jars some as tall as 3. 25 m, how and why they got there is the subject of speculation by both locals and archeologists, although nothing has been set in stone – the general consensus is one of bewilderment.
The jars are thought to be over 2,000 years old, but again this is just speculation and with no organic materials around them it is difficult to tell. Some of the locals believe the jars were built to store rice wine, when in the 6th century the Lao-Thai hero – Khun Jeaum defeated Chao Angka.
Regardless of the story, this archeological area is an imperative piece of land in the studying of prehistoric Southeast Asia. With over 50 sites ranging from a single jar to groups of 400. A tour guide will advise on the most attractive sights and the safest routes to access them. The biggest and easiest to access of all the six sites is southwest of Phonsavan and features 250 jars that weigh between 600 kg to one tonne each.
A former visit from the Thai Crown Prince resulted in two Pavilions and restrooms being built, the site also houses a little Laos-style restaurant.
Mooing Kham
This quiet town is very pleasant, but limited in recreation and sightseeing opportunities with just a few guesthouses, a couple of restaurants (mostly specialising in noodle soup) a market and the bus stop.
The two premier attractions of Muang Kham are the hot springs and Tham Piew, a large cave that housed over 400 civilians, who were killed when a single rocket was fired into the cave during the Second Indochina War. The limestone cave floor is littered with debris from the explosion that has been identified with a plaque as happening in 1969. To reach the cave visitors must first embark on a trek through the Hmong and Thai Dam villages, before hiking through the forest to reach the caves mouth.
No memorial or monument has been erected; the blackened walls serve as a testimony to the tragedy, although some believe the cave was in fact being used as a makeshift Vietnamese hospital.
War Memorials
South of Phonosavan are two major war memorials set 1 km apart on separate hill tops. Both are set in the style of traditional Laos stupas (each containing the bones of the dead) although one is representative of the Vietnamese and the other the Laos lives lost.
Inscribed on the Lao monument is the slogan ‘The nation remembers your sacrifice’, erected in 1998 a nearby slab of granite has the names of all the soldiers lost inscribed on its surface. The Vietnamese war memorial has the inscription ‘Lao-Vietnamese solidarity and generosity forever’.
Both memorials enjoy sprawling views of the countryside and are especially attractive at sunset.
Muang Khoun
Located 30 km southeast of Phonsavan. This town was once the Royal Capital and the centre of the Phuan Kingdom.
Some might describe it as a shadow of its former self and they would be quite accurate in doing so. A few French colonial buildings still remain in the town centre alongside Watt Is Phum- home to a sitting Buddha.
On the outskirts the ancient stupas tower over the city and the vistas surrounding the structures are well worth the hike. A few kilometers beyond the old capital, near the village of Ban Phai, lies a jar site; the jars are located just off an old dirt road and, unlike the jars at the three main sites, strangely enough they’re built from granite.
Muang Khan Cemetery
Unique and worth a visit just for the unusual site of mixing together Thai Dam animist tombs, Catholic headstones and Laos (Buddhist) tombs, situated east of Phonosavan.
That Foun (Old Xieng Khuang- Muang Khoun )
This Buddhist stupa is also known as That Chomsi. It measures about 30 metres and was built in 1576. The Lanna inspired structure stands tall over the town and can be entered by a cavity left by the Chinese Ho marauders, over a century ago after they looted the stupa in order to seize valuable Buddha images enshrined within.
The stupa was erected to cover ashes of Lord Buddha that were brought from India, during a time when Buddhism was proliferating in Laos. There are few if any sleeping options within this area so it is advised to take a day trip from the more populated Phonosavan.
Muang Sui
Used by the Americans as a landing site for planes during the Second Indochina War, much like neighboring Muang Khoun the town has endured a gradual rebuilding process since its obliteration during the war, and is now part of the Muang Phu Kut district.
Once a quaint town housing antique Buddhist temples and provincial architecture, visitors can still bear witness to some of the temple remains, in particular War Ban Phong where monks still reside.
Tham Pa
These two limestone caves hid hundreds of small Buddha figures from the Haw invasion a few centuries ago.
Dimly lit with the help of the rigged electrical lights (switched on by the locals for a small donation) making the passageways that link one cave to another accessible. The caves persist deep into the hill side and are pretty amazing.

Luang Prabang has been the discerning traveller’s darling for a good few years now, popular with backpackers making their way through Southeast Asia. The town projects an impression of challenging the values of modernity matched by an impressive menu of structures and scenery. This is first and foremost where Luang Prabang really captures the imagination.
Travellers arriving by boat will see verdant riverbanks and the glistening roofs of temples and disembarking at the former Royal Palace is the beginning of a trip packed with unique and charming encounters. Those who have already ventured to this part of the country will testify to the difficulty experienced when it’s time to leave. It’s easier than you would expect to sink into the slow and serene pace of Laos living.
Wat Long Khoun
Situated across the river, this charming spot can be reached after a short boat ride. The small district of Xiang men houses the once-important temple of Wat Long Khoun.Neither the most awe-inspiring nor grand of temples but definitely worth taking a look at. Few tourists and locals venture over so expect it to be a quiet affair even by Laos standards.
Pak Ou Caves
Formerly used for the worshiping of the River Spirit until Buddhism spread in to Laos. Frequented by locals for thousands of years, the caves can be accessed by taking a river boat some 25 km from Luang Prabang downstream.
Alternatively, the more adventurous (and brave) can take the land route via a jumbo (an open air taxi) that will drop you at the small village.A short walk to the edge of the village leads visitors to a spectacular view of the Mekong’s chocolate-coloured streams. When you arrive, the striking limestone cliffs and thousands of Buddha images that have been erected over 60 decades will not fail to disappoint .
Tad Sae Waterfall
35 minutes south of town, situated at the meeting of Nam Khan and Huay Sae rivers are the multilevel limestone formations that cascade into numerous pools.Less impressive than Tad Sae, they’re still worth a visit. The ride to reach them is quite spectacular and a great way to see more of the Laotian countryside.
Kouang Si Waterfall
29 Kilometers south of Luang Prabang (about one hour) are the Kouang Si Waterfalls where you can hike, swim and soak up the beauty of the surrounding area and picnic.
Before entering the park there are the usual street vendors selling local arts and crafts and delicious fare.The waterfalls are definitely worth a visit with their soaring limestone surfaces and cascading drops they make for some memorable views and fun activities.
Travellers can also visit hill-tribe people en-route to the cave. Beautiful scenery, flora and fauna surround the area.
Nong Khiaw
This market town on the west bank of Nam Ou in northern Luang Prabang Province is surrounded by mountains and caves. Experience rural Laos were children give away flowers and the local fisherman go about their daily business.A walk through the paddy fields and then climbing a bamboo ladder to reach the limestone interior of the nearby cave is recommended.

One of the Laos people’s favourite pastimes – as will become apparent when you are there – is sitting and watching the time pass by. The French coined the phrase: ‘The Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch it grow and the Laos listen to it grow’. Understandably, this is not in everyone’s nature, but a few hours of guzzling Beer Lao on the tranquil shores of the Mekong, is kind of mandatory for any Vientiane visitor.
Alternatively, the numerous educational sites, natural wonders and startling scenery should satisfy. For those who want to work up a sweat by other means than walking, trying taking an arranged hike, bike ride or working your way around one of the picturesque golf courses.
Swimming
Swimming is popular and easily accessible in Vientiane although you might want to think twice before jumping head first into the Mekong; currents are notoriously fast and dangerous. As you might imagine, the best swimming pools can be found in the better hotels and they usually allow outsiders in at charge.The Settha Palace is a luxury boutique resort that has a swimming pool set in beautiful surroundings and charges US$7 a day. The kidney-shaped pool of the Lane Xang has a spring diving board and is well shaded by greenery and huge umbrellas. The Tai-Pan swimming pool and fitness centre is open to the public for US$6 a day.The best value dip in Vientiane is the large public pool on Ky Houng Road (leading up between the National Museum and the Lao Plaza Hotel). Open daily from 08:00 to 19:00, it costs only US$1. The newly opened Nong Chan Water Park is great for both children and adults alike, with huge slides – a fairly new phenomenon to Laos – situated on Khouvieng Blvd, near the central bus station.
Massage/Sauna
The sensory delights available in Southeast Asia are arguably amongst the best in the world. The ancient art of aromatherapy and massage have become somewhat synonymous with Asia’s tourism treats. Lao-style massage is a combination of Swedish oil and Thai acupressure, gentler than traditional Thai massage.Choose from up-market luxury hotel spas to the more cost-effective streetside shop, where the massage experience is equally as invigorating. One thing is for sure; a good massage can be had cheap in this town.MeditationEvery Saturday local monks lead a walking and sitting meditation session at Wat Sok Pa Luang. Between 16:00 and 17:30, the sessions take place in pavilions and within the garden. Everyone is welcome, the session is, of course, free of charge and a translator is present for the after-period question time. Twice a year the Buddhist teacher holds intensive Vispassana meditation workshops at the monastery, open to all who wish to join.
Golf
Four Kilometers away from the bridge that links Thailand to Laos – the Friendship Bridge, The 18-hole Youth Garden Golf Course, was the first course to be established within the city and can be accessed by non members for about US$16 on weekdays and a little more on weekends, inclusive of the caddy fee. You can bring your own clubs, or rent a set. A quiet nine-hole course set in well-tended grounds, the KM 6 is considered the hub of expatriate golf activity in Vientiane. Members’ tournaments feature regularly on the weekends; however you are guaranteed a quiet round on weekday afternoons.
Weaving & Dying
For many years the country’s ancient silk-weaving tradition was lost under the Communist regime. With the help of foreign influence and interest from the likes of American weaver Carol Cassidy who started Lao Textiles in 1990, the once elaborate and endangered art form is experiencing a renaissance. ‘Spinning a yarn’ in Laos is an inherent part of the culture; visitors can learn how to dye textiles using natural pigments and then weave them using a traditional loom. Weaving orientation is both an educational and practical exercise where visitors can learn about the process of weaving and improve their knowledge of various types.